West and O’Keefe also took special care in how all of these main (and background) characters wore the pieces—whether they were draped across the back or folded delicately over the arm. “There’s many different ways to wear an Osage blanket,” says O’Keefe. “There’s different ways to fold it, depending on where you are.” The way the accessories were styled even became a crucial detail. “Lily Gladstone would not go to set without Julie going to her trailer first to make sure the blanket was folded the exact right way for the scene,” says West.Ernest and Mollie’s wedding ensembles were crucial costumes as well. In Osage culture, traditional wedding coats and top hats—worn by women during the ceremony—are some of the most important and sacred elements. The look derives from the early 1900s, when military jackets and top hats were often given to Osage chiefs and leaders from the US government and were subsequently repurposed as bridal attire. “The irony is that it takes something that represents the white man’s power and makes it something joyous and celebratory for an Osage wedding,” says West. “There’s something so beautifully rebellious about that.” In the film, Mollie sports a bespoke military-style coat with an embroidered skirt, finger-woven belt, and 18-inch top hat decorated with French ribbon and feathers.
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